#3 - Mumtaz Mahal

She said it would break me. She said I'd have to overlook the traffic, the garbage on the streets, the poverty, and the smells, to find the beauty in it all. Thinking of Rishikesh - the city where I'll be studying yoga at the base of the Himalayas - Dawn (a backpacker who we met serendipitously in Malaysia who had previously taken a yoga course in Rishikesh) advised, "look to the mountains to find the beauty." But, in Delhi there are no mountains - just mountains of trash, traffic, and grey, thick smog. Perhaps it was just the weariness of traveling setting in, or the contrast to my leisurely massage-filled days in Thailand... but I started to wonder how I would survive one week in India - let alone seven.

I had read cautionary tales of rickshaws taking tourists not to their proposed destination, but instead to other places (where the drivers could get commission) well off the beaten track. So, as a cunning traveler, I came "prepared" - impervious to scamming. Alas, my mother and I fell victim to scam after scam, arriving at "The Government of India Tourism Office" several times -  and the continual handicraft shop rolling out carpets for a quick test. Even for the "cunning traveler," it was difficult to give in completely to the vulnerability of the situation. As I began to break, a man in the "Government" office said, "India's tough! [...]  Money is nothing! [...] Have some tea!" Now, I thought,  there's a bit of good news - apparently, tea solves everything here!

In all honesty, things began to seem a bit backward - backward in that the system seemed to be working in the opposite manner of what I've come to expect, know, and love. Through the dust-covered glasses of a foreigner falling victim, everything seemed in imbalance. We tried to fight the system, and apparent imbalance, but in the end were forced to give in - as mom was on a mission. After several miserable attempts to book a train, we hired a car (which was exorbitantly more expensive) to take us out the next day to our proposed destination - the Taj Mahal.

What a sight. After spending the night in Agra, our driver picked us up before dawn so we could see the Taj at sunrise. In a sea of, well... what I had come to know as India... the Taj seemed an oasis of peace, tranquility, and magnificence. Beautiful. Built by Shah Johan in memory of his wife Mumtaz (who died in childbirth after their fourteenth child), the Taj Mahal is not only a symbol of endless, undying love; but an architectural jewel. It truly is Mumtaz - excellent. Still, the ostentatious nature of the building began to contrast with the obvious needs of the Indian people I had seen along the road to Agra, and around the Taj.  I began to ponder...  what is love? what is beauty? who is backward?

I look forward to looking to the mountains, in Rishikesh, and within me, to explore these questions and find the beauty in it all. I have a suspicion that in this place where tea apparently solves everything.. mountains of trash can be agricultural jewels.. and everything is Mumtaz - even traffic, garbage, and poverty. Perhaps everything and everywhere can be an oasis of peace, tranquility, and magnificence. 

#2 - Water for Elephants

I could have watched them for hours - the kites dancing in the wind, and the kids below just trying to hang on. Long after my father and I flew kites year after year at festivals back home, it still amazes me the wonder that can be had from a bit of tuppence for paper and string. It seemed appropriate then as at Sanam Luang - the royal field - in Bangkok, even a monk marveled as the world - and kites - flew by. 

Thailand is certainly an interesting place - and perhaps one of my favorite places on earth. What's not to like - the massages? the beautiful temples? the nice and helpful people? Almost the whole of the experience seemed appropriately humbling, perhaps even revealing the realm of heaven... as in the story of the reclining Buddha... Thailand just seems to get down on your level - making you feel... at home. 

We spent our first couple of days in Thailand roaming around the city of Bangkok - first in the old, and then in the new. "Wat" infinity... we visited more than a dozen temples and a few malls that seemed like temples - with 7 or more floors in their pagoda. Everything so shiny and overwhelming - what to buy? what to do? where to massage?!

Well, we made a couple of good choices! We caught a movie at Central World Plaza, as we heard the audiences stand for the national anthem before the show - and that we did! Of honorable mention here was that our theatre was a "happiness" theatre.. with love seats, day beds, complimentary popcorn and soda, and blankets..very nice! But why did it seem that there were only couples sitting around us? :)

Soon, we were off to Chiang Mai! I made a reservation on the sleeper train (which made mom a bit nervous), and it was wonderful. The pillows, sheets, and vibrations of the train made for an easy ride. There, we met a backpacker - David - who entertained us marvelously during the non-sleeping hours...

... and then, the real fun began! First, we headed out to see some more temples, and did some shopping in the city. In the market, we found a "fish spa" - a place where you can have little fish nibble at your feet.. a quite tickly pedicure! It was a bit weird, but the fact that we were able to make it through the whole 15 minutes proves that you can get used to anything!

Then is what came to be the highlight of our trip in Thailand - the elephants. I remember seeing some photos of a friend riding an elephant through a river in Southeast Asia - and immediately adding that to my list! Still, as I started researching places to ride, I became disheartened by the state of the magnificent beasts in the region. So, I decided to book a day tour with the Elephant Nature Park - a sanctuary and rehabilitation centre for elephants located about 60km outside of Chiang Mai. We spent the day learning about, feeding, and even bathing several of the elephants in the park. Incredible. 

It was perhaps more than appropriate that I finished the book Water for Elephants while out in Chiang Mai. Meeting the elephants, and spending time with a certain family reminded me how "life is the most spectacular show on earth." One family - of a 6, 13, 14 year-old with 2 parents - was traveling for 365 days together.. what an amazing thought. It was incredible to hear of their adventures.. see the eye-opening education provided to these lucky children.. and imagine doing such a trip myself someday - what role models they were. 

And then, it was time to head back to Bangkok and on to India. I think I'll refrain from mentioning our train - I mean bus-train-bus-train - back to the capital city. Perhaps mom was right in being a little nervous about the so-called "sleeper" train. "Wake up! Do not forget get anything! No problem! Bus free!" :)

#1 - Trek through the Jungle

I'm wondering if we all have some instinct desire to trek through the jungle - seek out beauty, and "cheat" danger, if you will, on occasion - or if it's just me.. :)

My trip to Malaysia started with a full week of trekking through the concrete jungle of Kuala Lumpur. Interviewing for a consulting job in the city, drivers chauffeured me to and from the office from which one could marvel at the world's tallest twin towers, and look down upon perhaps one of the most culturally diverse cities in the world. Once I was able to finally get out of my hotel room (where I worked on assignments and fought jet lag all week!), it was amazing to see the juxtaposition of Malaysian women wearing head-coverings to others wearing miniskirts and heels so high even I couldn't pull them off. What should I wear? Hmm..

After the interviews finished (I'll hear back in April), my mother arrived for a bit of mother-daughter travel around the region. It's amazing how things work out sometimes.. she on sabbatical and I en route between interviews and the yoga course. Without sounding too cheesy, I'd like to affirm the once-in-a-lifetime nature of this particular trip!

After trekking a bit around the city and its environs, my mother and I hopped a plane over to Kota Kinabalu - the capital city of the region of Sabah in Malaysian Borneo. How could we resist? One of the world's largest biodiversity hotspots, the Lonely Planet guide said this "land of the wind"[...] "proves that there is a god." After getting a bit discombobulated in the the "lost world," we made it out (by car - yes I drove on the left) to Mt. Kinabalu for a bit of island hopping and true jungle trekking. Although we couldn't find the world's largest flower (said to take 15 months to germinate and only 1 week in bloom), we met creatures including bright centipedes, tropical mushrooms, and pretty little butterflies along the "trail".. i have to say, if you ever get the chance to visit borneo, do, and stay a long, long while! Oh.. and they drive on the left side over here...

Oops! One last stop before leaving the "jungles" of Malaysia - Penang! Penang is famous for its street food and UNESCO World Heritage site of Georgetown. Although I could probably write pages and pages about the FOOD and city, I just have to point out the incredible view... again the interesting juxtaposition of conservative and liberal dress (especially at the beach)... and the amazing religious sites - Malaysia is rich with Muslim, Buddhist, Hindu, and Christian heritage.. and, oh, yes we did get attacked by a family of monkeys..

.. and that's all I have to say about that.. we shall see if this is ta ta for now or arrivederci dear Malaysia! 

Art of Happiness 101

On Nov. 23 of 2011... a big birthday of mine... I decided to make a list of 101 things I'd like to do in the next 1001 days. Perhaps mulling in what I hope to be a quarter-life crisis :), I felt a certain sense of urgency to make things happen. Now, miraculously, I am sitting in Penang, Malaysia, on my way to Thailand, en route to India for a certification course in yoga instruction.

As I started making the list, and envisioned accomplishing my goals, I decided I wanted to do more - help others accomplish theirs. So, for every goal I achieve, I am supporting one entrepreneur through kiva.org. Now, let me go ahead and say that my 101 list is open for improvements! .. if you happen to check from one day to the next.. some things might change.. for the better of course! :)  I am experimenting with the wonders of goal-setting and creating lists, but will stay ever faithful to my appreciation of spontaneity and "going with the flow".. 

I'll be posting here about each goal as I achieve it, and first, my experiences in Malaysia, Thailand, and India - say if you will, the "jump start" to my count down to day zero - the end of the 1001 days, when the next semi-planned-out adventure begins.. 

http://dayzeroproject.com/user/aliciaadkins

p.s.  - 

Kiva.org